IF, condenser fan is not turning or not turning enough, imagine what would happen: 1. In hot summer, the gaseous refrigerant does not cool into liquid > poor A/C performance. 2. However, in any weather, if you drive steadily at 30mph or higher, you do not need fan. Outside air and car speed is sufficient to cool the refrigerant > A/C works. 3.
If you have your hood open and listen over the Coolant Pump and Reservoir, you should hear a gurgle as the pump runs immediately after the "pedal to floor" startup. If you do NOT hear the pump running, post back immediately, and do NOT run the engine. If you have air in the system, you can get an "air lock" at the heater core.
So here's an update; I decided to try to code out my ACC module. I deleted +541 (ACC) from the VO and added +544 (DCC). I have a 6 cilinder so I need +544 instead of +540 (Regular Cruise Control) from what I understand. I then recoded the CAS, KOMBI and DSC modules.
My 2007 328i has been recalled for the "blow by heater" recall, aka PCV heater. I am hoping that this involves the removal of the valve cover, because my valve cover gasket is currently leaking and therefore I am hoping the recall will solve this problem as well. My Bentley is a bit confusing on this. My car has the plastic cylinder head cover
My plan is this: )Drain Coolant. )Refill with 4 gallons of distilled water + 750mL of Liqui Moly Radiator/Coolant Cleaning Solution. )Run car for 30 minutes, idle + maybe a little test drive to really get the coolant warm and circulated fully. )Drain distilled water and cleaning product. )At this point, I plan on flushing the heater core on itToday we're replacing the heater control valve on my E60 550i! This part commonly fails and leads to hot air forced on one side of the car or both, even when .